I feel like we hear so much about azelaic acid at the moment – how it can help with stressed-out, inflamed skin, acne, hyperpigmentation, melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (post-acne brown marks), redness, post-inflammatory erythema (post-acne red marks), rosacea, even perioral dermatitis and yet… it’s hard to figure out which one is right for you, where it goes in your routine and once you get there, how to introduce it.
This is where the spreadsheet comes in. Each product contains pure azelaic acid with the percentage listed where available, and azelaic acid can help with all of the above concerns. I’ve excluded cleansers and also products that don’t contain pure azelaic acid. If it’s just a derivative, they’re out. If the product contains extra ingredients for soothing, exfoliation, hyperpigmentation or anti-aging, that column will also have a +. You can sort by any column, which should help to filter for your budget and concerns. At the bottom of the page, underneath the table I’ve added some extra information about each skin concern to further assist.
Skin Concern Guide
If your concern is acne, keep in mind that azelaic acid is best for mild to moderate acne with blackheads and clogged pores. An added exfoliant would be nice for you, especially if you also want to treat hyperpigmentation. Steer clear of added exfoliants if you also have intermittent redness, rosacea or are prone to perioral dermatitis. If you experience deep, under-the-skin pimples (cystic/nodular), that’s classified as severe and it’s best to speak to a doctor to mitigate the risk of scarring.
For hyperpigmentation (melasma, dark spots or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) it’s important to prevent inflammation as this will contribute to further hyperpigmentation. An added exfoliant could help speed up the clearing of dark spots but conversely, could contribute to a damaged barrier and inflamed skin. If something feels spicy or you’re in doubt, just avoid the extra exfoliation.
When treating perioral dermatitis, simplest is best so go for minimal extra ingredients. For rosacea, redness or post-inflammatory erythema (red marks after a pimple), calming ingredients would be nice but aren’t essential.
As always, free to leave a comment with your favourite or one you’ve found and I’ll happily add it to the table!
For some additional reading, check out this post on introducing retinol to your routine: